Saturday, 12 November 2016

Just Quilting with a Janome 1600P on a Grace Frame

I have a Janome 1600P named Big Martha set up on a Grace Frame. The frame is 120 inches - 10 feet - long - and the way the sewing machine is set on it, I have about 7 inches of that width that my needle can not reach.

Grace Frame and Big Martha (Janome 1600P)
This photo is taken from the back and one end of the frame. I wanted to point out the holes in the legs of the frame. You want your frame to be set for YOUR height. When you are standing in front of the frame holding the handles that allow you to guide the sewing machine, you want your elbows bent at about a 90° angle. If it is too low or too high you will hurt your back, shoulders, arms and neck!

I stand on the other side. The reason I took this photo is so that you can see the tray that the sewing machine sits on. The machine is fastened down, so it can not slide off of that tray (or shift around on it) but the tray itself has a cleverly designed set of wheels so that it can move the length of the table, and forward and backward, enabling me to pull and push it around easily and quickly from the hand holds on the front.
Ribbon 

Here you can see the comfortable handholds for the machine, as well as the throttle which is connected by a wire to the back of the machine (where the pedal would plug in if I were using it on a table.) The throttle is connected with velcro to the handle of the tray. I have a piece of red ribbon tied to hold that wire up. When a full sized quilt is on the frame, and I am getting close to the end of the quilting process, that wire sometimes get hung up on the rolled up quilt. I found that inconvenient - this was an easy solution.
Throttle
The throttle itself has a button at the top that says, "Pulse" beside it. When you hold that button, the machine runs. When you let go, the machine stops. This has the advantage of making the machine stop easily when you need it to. (More on this in a second.)

The button below that is an ON/OFF button. You push once to turn it on and once again to turn it off. This is not spectacularly convenient... Say you have come to the end of a pass  and you need to stop - you have to take your eyes off of the quilt, (and you need to keep moving the machine - if you quilt too many stitches in one spot you will break your thread AND build up a pile of thread that you likely don't want on your quilt!), find the button and push it. If you keep your thumb on it, you might stop the machine when you don't want to - and if you keep moving things you will break the needle and you could tear your quilt. (I have never done this, so I am not speaking from experience...)

The little knob controls the speed of the machine. But you can't turn it up and down easily while you are using it. Unlike the foot pedal, there is no control of the speed of the machine by the throttle - you are going as fast as you have the machine set when it is on and you are not going at all when it is off. This is fairly easy to get used to.

Here's the more on those little buttons though. When you are quilting for hours, those little buttons try to make a hole in your thumb. So I took a penny and some duct tape and made a cover for the top button - the pulse one.
A penny and duct tape to save my thumb

Now when I hold that button down I push on the penny and my thumb is fine.

There is also an option for a thread cutter on this throttle control (which came, I believe, with the frame.) The sewing machine has the button but I rarely use it and I do not have the connection that goes between this control and the sewing machine.
Space between bar, throat and needle
This photo is taken from the side - you can see the bar that the backing, batting and quilt top roll up around as you work. This bar is adjustable, up and down. As more of the quilt is done, the roll that is on that bar gets bigger and bigger. You need to lift the bar, otherwise the roll of finished quilt will eventually make it impossible to move the machine... it will be 'holding it down' as it were. (There are easy adjustments on either end of the frame for moving the bar up and down.)

And here is the major difference between a midarm (without a computer or a stitch regulator) and a long arm machine with neither of those. See where the bar is in relation to the inside of my machine's throat? Or harp, if you prefer? See where the needle is? When the machine is touching that bar, that is as far forward as I can quilt. This means, at the beginning of a quilt, I have about 6-ish inches of forwards and backwards motion that I can make with the mid arm. The whole width of the quilt - but only forwards and backwards about 6 inches. If I forget and pull the machine forward, it will BOUNCE off of that bar, and make a jagged bump in my quilting.

Another picture might help.
Three passes to get this quilted
So. In order to quilt the plum coloured setting triangles, and then the striped diamonds, this took me three passes. As it happens these pieces were small enough to fit within that 6 inch-ish space early on in this quilt. So I quilted the plum triangles from the left end to the right. Then I quilted the top half of the striped diamonds.  This pattern sort of starts on the left and goes to the right, so when I got to the right side of the quilt top, I stopped, cut my threads and went back to the left. I rolled the quilt far enough forward that I could go from the middle line down to the bottom of the diamond, without bouncing the needle end of the sewing machine off of the rolled up quilt at the straight line, or bouncing the harp of the machine off of the other side of the roll up bar, when I got down to the point.

By the end of the quilt, I had to roll the quilt back and forth slightly for each diamond to reach the point AND the straight part.


Hand wheel (now long broken)
The frame itself came with a little wheel to roll the quilt forward and backward. I'm sorry to say that some of the parts of the gearing for this little wheel are plastic. I broke it in three places.
Non-skid shelf liner for advancing the quilt

I now have a loop of non-skid shelf liner on the top bar and the front bar of the frame at this end so that I can advance the quilt without hurting my wrists. It is amazing what a difference this makes when loading the quilt onto the frame, as well. MUCH easier!

I have gleaned some hints about setting up the Janome 1600P, as well. If you are having trouble with your thread breaking (or skipped stitches), I suggest you try these.

This piece of advice is my own. I have discovered that my machine builds up a little wad of dust/fluff (mostly from thread) between the bobbin case and the feed dogs (which are covered with a plate, as opposed to lowered or raised on my machine.) This wad gets bigger and bigger and denser and denser until it either somehow compresses itself through a tiny hole and attaches itself to the back of a quilt (where I find it and cut it off later) OR until it just makes the thread break over and over. I find the easiest way to get this out is to unplug everything, take the machine off of the frame, lay it on its side, take the bottom off of it, and turn the hand crank. Armed with a small paint brush, a pair of tweezers and a large vocabulary of swear words, the wad usually just falls out in this attitude. When the machine is upright, it must be caught in there somewhere. When I have the machine apart, I dust the whole case out, taking care NOT to disturb anything that the manufacturer has covered with lubricant, and looking for stray pieces of thread around the shaft that turns the bobbin case at the same time. To prevent this (as much as possible or delay having to do this more often), see Changing the bobbin below.

• Take Up Roller (bar) rolled in the wrong direction (The quilt needs to go under the bottom and up the back of the bar - not over the bar from the front. If you are standing at the left hand end of your frame looking at the length of the frame, the quilt needs to be rolling up clockwise as you work on it.)

• Thread, could be old, poor quality etc., try a different brand/spool (I have had people tell me that they spray there thread with something, even water, and this helps. I have not tried this and would rather use good quality thread anyway - far fewer problems all around!)

• Thread wrapped around the bobbin case latch or behind the bobbin case (If it is behind the bobbin case, UNPLUG the machine and take the machine off of the frame (perhaps with help, it is fairly heavy), lay it on its side on a sturdy table, take the four screws out of the bottom of it and remove the bottom. You may be able to see the thread that way. You can turn the hand crank to move things around. DON'T put your fingers anywhere near the needle. In fact, why not remove the needle before you do this!) (To reset your hand crank, push the needle up/down button twice, when you have everything right side up and plugged in again, with the machine unthreaded.)

• Thread delivery, thread catching as it comes off the spool, either on the spool end itself, the spool cap etc.

• Thread has wrapped around the 3 hole thread guide on the sewing machine. (I look for this immediately when I have problems with the thread, and I check it when I thread the needle or change the bobbin.)

• Needle/thread, size/weight combination incompatible

• Needle inserted incorrectly, not fully up in the shaft or turned the wrong direction

• Machine threaded incorrectly (Look at your user's manual!) (I quilted a few quilts with the bobbin in the bobbin case backwards... it took an effort to learn how to thread it properly again. I can't believe it worked at all, and I can't figure out why it stopped working...)

• Quilt sandwich too tight (I have never had this one happen!)

• Burr on needle, needle plate, hook or other location on the machine (Feel for this with your finger. Replace the needle if you have a bur there. The needle plate can be lightly sanded with an emery board)

• Inconsistent or erratic movement of machine (Check the wire connecting your throttle to the machine, both at the throttle and at the machine. Check to make sure you aren't in the process of coming unplugged both at the back of the machine AND at the wall... Ask me how I know to check these.)

• Be sure that the presser foot is up when threading and down when sewing (If you thread your machine with the presser foot up, then the thread does not go IN BETWEEN the tension plates. If you change your tension, you need to lift and drop the pressor foot as well. My machine will NOT SEW if the presser foot is up - which is nice... my little machine would - what a mess on the back.)
Speed control on Big Martha, Turtle, Sleeping Bunny & OMG Leaping Rabbit

• Speed on the machine itself, set too high, it should be in the middle (In fact, when you are new at this, set the speed on turtle - not on the "OMG! Leaping Rabbit" setting!)
 Side clamp

• The quilt sandwich needs to be level, only the backing is secured with the side clamps. After the quilt on the take up roller (bar) gets larger you will need to adjust the level from time to time. (I had no idea that only the backing should be secured with the side clamps - what a difference that makes!) (The picture above shows the side clamps. This is the only major thing about the frame I would change - the handle parts stick up above the quilt and they get caught, occasionally, on the handles when I am working on the edges of the quilt. They are hard to do without, and I haven't figured out what I could use instead that doesn't stick up so far but which could hang on like these do.) (They are AMAZING at holding onto the quilt!)

Thread holder, air intake for motor, hand wheel, barely visible!

• Lower the thread stand to approximately 1” above the spool (I raise it when I fill bobbins with a second spool, well, cone, so that the threads do not get tangled up. I take the second cone OFF of the machine and store it with my bobbin changing stuff (more on that later!) when I am not using it. That thread can get tangled on the hand crank or pulled into the motor of the machine through the intake on the back via static electricity... why take the chance?)


Tension knob (ACK!)
Okay, and back to my suggestions. The tension setting. It took me a long time to figure out the tension setting on the Janome 1600P. The tension adjustor is a little knob. You can see it in the picture above. It sticks out. And it rolls forwards or backwards when you reach out to push the little button that changes your needle from needle up (or down) to needle down (or up), IF you run your forearm along it. ACK! I think you can see, in this photo that there is a little black mark (made with a Sharpie, as it happens) on the housing that is attached to the machine, and a smaller (slightly less visible one) on the actual tension knob itself. THIS is so, when I turn the knob with my arm by accident (sigh!) it is fairly easy to reset.

Changing the bobbin: The bobbin is on the front end of the machine, so you need to be able to move the machine to one end or the other of your quilt to get at the bobbin case. EVERY single time you change the bobbin, dust the inside of your bobbin case out. I have a couple of paintbrushes - one small one and one bigger one, to be a big help with this. Once in awhile, I turn the hand crank by hand, and watch for any build up of fluff in the hook part of the bobbin case - and I use the brush to remove as much as I can. Once in while I take the feed dog cover off and dust everything very carefully. When you put your bobbin back in the machine make sure it clicks - if it doesn't everything will make a BAD noise.

By the way, if your machine makes any BAD noises - don't keep going - stop and figure it out!! I broke a free motion foot into two pieces. The bad noise was caused (as it happens) (who knew) by a little bar that SHOULD have been OVER the screw that tightens up the needle - not underneath it. It made that BAD noise a long time before it broke!

When you are working around your needle, changing needles, feet or covering your feed dogs (or uncovering them) or changing your bobbin, be VERY careful around your sewing machine needle. I have a friend who put the needle through her index finder. Right through the nail and out the other side. I performed first aid, but I would say, from her point of view, that it was even more unpleasant to experience than it was to treat.

There are two other settings on the machine that I did not find out until after I had had it about three years, and I can't remember what they are supposed to be. One is that little knob on the top, over the sewing machine... Just a second, I'll go downstairs and look at it. BRB

Oh yes.
Pressor Foot tension
See that knob at the top of the machine? And see the little gauge below it, fairly near the tension knob (see how far that thing sticks out! ARGH!) Anyway, that little gauge should be set at 0 when you are free motion quilting - that knob controls the pressure of the pressor foot on the plate of the machine - and you don't want any pressure there when you are FMQ. (My machine came with a walking foot - which is basically unuseable with the machine on the frame... you would need it set at a different setting if you were using this on a table with a walking foot or a quarter inch foot - which I don't have for it anyway.)

While I am at it, this photo also shows a couple of spots where the thread can get hung up. One of them is described as the three hole thread guide in the troubleshooting tips above. When you thread this machine the thread goes in the first hold, over the top of that guide and back in through the third hole. Sometimes it gets wrapped around the bottom of that three hole guide.

The other place that I get the thread caught is on that little shepherd's hook by the tension knob. This is something I do when I'm trying to thread the needle. I must have threaded that needle a hundred times without hooking the thread on that - and then the last 5 times I've threaded it, I get it caught there - so I have started looking at it before I start off.
Stitch Length (and thread cutter)
The other thing you will probably want to adjust is the stitch length. That knob on the back of the machine does it. (There's the cutter button, btw! Just in case you wondered what it was.) (It cuts your thread. But it cuts the bobbin thread so that you have to open the bobbin area, take out the bobbin and pull the thread out a bit, put the bobbin case back in to the machine and lower and raise the needle to pull it up... I don't use it very often.)

A package of needles
Needles. I know that the machine says to use specific needles and I did when I first started. Exactly the needles that it told me to use. Now, I seem to be quilting faster, denser and wilder than ever, and those needles don't work for me. I went to my local sewing machine store and the gent there sold me this package of needles. I do not suggest that you buy them. I can only tell you that they have worked like a house on fire for me.

My quilt studio
So here you have it. The quilt studio with Big Martha and her frame. Am I having fun with my free motion quilting? You betcha!

Free Motion Quilting
Enjoy!



Saturday, 18 April 2015

Just one photo and one story (except there are two photos)

I have been invited by Connie of BasildonKitchen to join the Five Photos, Five Stories Challenge: “Post a photo each day for five consecutive days and attach a story to the photo. It can be fiction or non-fiction, a poem or a short paragraph and each day nominate another blogger for the challenge”. I met Connie on facebook a few years ago. We belong to a photo a day group on facebook and her photos are wonderful!

#1 - Spring in Nova Scotia
I live in a nice little town in central Nova Scotia. My husband and I decided to retire here 7 years ago and bought a lot, sight unseen, the year before we retired. Then we put our house on the market in Ottawa, packed up our little trailer and travelled down here to wait while our new home was being built.

We have enjoyed our time in Nova Scotia, spending quite a bit of our summer time in our sunporch. THIS year, in the winter, we had a bit of snow. Barry and I went cross country skiing, snowshoeing and hiking in the snow. In mid March however, things started to get silly, weatherwise. On March 18th - we had another 'bit' of snow. I took this picture on the 19th of March.

Beginning near the end of March, I have taken a picture each day of the snow receding. This morning, April 18th, I took this picture, which I include for the purpose of contrast.
The snow is not quite gone, but we surely are enjoying spring time in Nova Scotia this year!

Today I would like to challenge my quilting friend Irene.  She is off having an adventure right now and may now be able to start this right away!  Irene blogs over at Quilterosity.  Check it out!
Until next time, Jane


Sunday, 14 September 2014

Just a little quilt program

In October I will be running the program for my quilt guild and I thought I would pick the topic, Quilting Hacks. I defined a quilting hack as "using an item for quilting that was not designed to be used for quilting." I wanted a pile of cool ideas, and I put forth my request to the two quilting groups that I belong to on facebook. Within 12 hours I had had more than 400 responses between the two groups. Some of the responses were, "These are wonderful!" (I MAY have posted a few of those myself!) My favourite response of this sort was, "This is the FUNNEST thread ever!"

There were lots of duplicates. Quilters are smart, caring, sharing people - and somethings are just so obvious EVERYONE thinks of them. Some of the ideas were jaw dropping.

I spent three days organizing the ideas into some sort of useable list. And I will post it here.

Oh, and I did not attribute anything to anyone. Many of them were offered by several people. Some of them needed to be 'translated' or clarified and I had no way to ask for help. I did, at the beginning of my request let everyone know I was going to share them.

Some of them are my own hacks... I have shared these lists on the two facebook pages where they came from as well.

So this was fun. I will report on the Program itself next month! (Oh, and the results were 21 pages long! I suspect that I could have organized them better, and I may have another go at that before I present the program.)

Quilting Hacks
Appliqué
Elmers Washable glue can be used as pins. (Pressing your pieces briefly will dry the glue quickly.)

I re-use dryer sheets. After they come out of the dryer I will press them lightly. Then place them over any shape or design I want to create an applique shape for. Such as a heart. I then place the dryer sheet with the traced design onto the right side of a piece of fabric and I sew around the entire shape with a very short stitch. Then I cut out the shape leaving a little 1/8" inch allowance. then with a small slit in the used dryer sheet you can turn the shape inside out. The dryer sheet adds virtually no bulk. It ensures a nice smooth edge for you to either machine or hand applique. It is really good for unusual shapes or ones with complex edges such as a ruffled flower.

I make 1/4" bias strips for stems in applique and wrap them around wine corks..easy to get a pin in to hold the strip to the cork.

Glue stick to tack down appliqué pieces

Freezer paper ironed to the back of fabric for appliques...peels off easily and works great.

Awl (Stiletto)
Dentist tools can be used as a tailor's awl. Dental pick from the dollar store to hold down fabric while sewing.

Orange Sticks (a manicure tool) can be used to hold seams still while sewing
You can sharpen a chop stick in a pencil sharpener if you need a sharper awl, rather than a blunt one
Instead of buying a stiletto, I use a nut pick to hold ends or corners down

Basting
Skewers taped to the table mark the centre for hand basting (you can feel them through the quilt layers)

Large alligator clips will hold everything together for basting.

Use woodworkers clamps to hold quilt backing to table for basting quilt layers

Use a grapefruit spoon to help close my quilting pins when I'm basting my quilt sandwich

Washers (covered) can be used as weights to hold quilt taut while pin basting.

A "shooter" marble (the bigger marbles) can be used under the layers of a quilt when hand basting. It holds the quilt up just enough to baste comfortably.

I use the plastic or metal slide on clips; the ones that stop your picnic table cloth from blowing away. I use them to hold tight the bottom fabric on a table while I am layering it then add batting over clipped backing and lie quilt top on. When you start pinning or basting nothing will shift.

Binding
Hair clips from the dollar store can be used instead of expensive clips from the fabric shop.

Black alligator clamps can be used for holding your binding folded.

To organize your binding, roll it onto an empty toilet paper roll and thread the roll on a ribbon. Wear the ribbon around your neck – it will keep the binding from twisting AND keep it up off the floor.

Old aluminum foil cardboard tubes can be used to hold binding fabric

An empty CD holder can be used to wrap binding around. Close one end of binding inside and then wrap around the holder.

Altoids case can be used to hold hair clips for binding. Hair clips are best price at Dollar Store.

I sew binding on the front of the quilt and hand sew the back. When I get to the corner I use a pair of hemostats to pinch the corner just so and hold it there while I sew around it. (Hemostats
are clamps that look almost like scissors except they have flat tongs instead of blades and they clamp shut.)

I use the pants hangers to clip my binding on till I am ready to bind it. I put the binding in a gallon storage bag with the name of the quilt on it and leave it open a little so it gets air, then hang on a rod in my closet

Put a big safety pin (I call them a diaper pin) on the edge of your ironing surface and pull my binding (folded) through it while I press it folded.

When I fold and press my binding, I take an empty cereal box, flatten it and stick the beginning of the binding in the center of the box. I then roll the binding around the box. Then put a pin to secure it to the roll. This keeps the binding flat and ready to go!

When I'm at JC Penney I look on the floor in the Men's dress shirt dept. There are some cool clip things that fall off the shirts. Those hold binding on a quilt too while you sew.

Wrap binding around an empty thread spool. Hold with a piece of dowel rod and a rubber band. Doesn't unravel unless you remove the rubber band.

I put my binding in a plastic grocery bag and put it over my right arm while machine attaching binding to the quilt. Keeps the weight of hanging binding from stretching.

I roll my binding around a pencil, then put a eraser on the end as a cap.

Bobbins
Clear plastic tubing cut into 1/2 inch pieces (or so) and then slit up the side. Holds the thread on the bobbin

Sit your bobbin on top of the original spool of thread – pop a golf tee through the bobbin into the spool, and they will stay together.

Pipe cleaners can hold bobbins onto the spools.

Foam pedicure toe separators make great holders for bobbin storage.

Small elastic pony tail holders over bobbins keeps thread from unraveling.

Store bobbins in an ice cube tray (the ones for long skinny ice cubes)

Ring re-enforcers (notebook paper holes) to label bobbins.

A large pill daily box for bobbins for white, black, grey and monofilament threads. I keep about 10 of each per colour wound and the clear box makes them easier to find!

The little clips that come on inhalers are just right to keep bobbin threads under control.

Books and Magazines and patterns
Clips that were made to keep fabric on a bolt work well to keep one's place in a quilt book when you're reading the directions for cutting.

Use a small photo album to hold those small card type patterns.

I hang my pattern books for all my different crafts in a filing cabinet. I used the tops of the hanging file folders, one to a book, unless it was a large hardcover, suspending the book over it. I hang them so I can read the title when I pull the drawers open. For leaflets and small patterns, I keep the file folders intact. I got this from my sister-in-law.

I took several of my quilt books I use a lot to Staples (business supply store) and had them spiral bound; now they lay flat and I find them easier to use

I use the cheap plastic picture frame to keep the pattern I am working on standing up in front of me (a copy so I can mark it). If it is a long pattern with many steps, I use post it notes to mark where I am.

Mark your place on the glass of the pic frame with a dry erase marker. I use this technique for other needle work crafts that I do, ie. crochet, knitting, cross stitch, etc.

A cookbook holder works to keep your pattern hands free and able to see

I put pattern sheets in sheet protector sleeves and mark on them with dry erase markers

Colours
I have used the color cards from paint stores as a palette for a quilt. If you pick out a card with your color choice, then take it to the fabric store and match a fabric with each color on the card you will have a perfect blend of colors that match for your quilt.

Cutting Mats
Nylon sink scrubby cleans cutting mat

I use a vegetable brush to clean my cutting mat.

A washable lint roller will pick up threads from my ironing board and cutting mat.

I use a white plastic eraser to clean my cutting mat.

A wallpaper brush makes a good cutting mat sweeper, to get all the trimmings swept into the trash.

A sandpaper block for cleaning rotary mat (Be gentle, you don't want to damage your mat!)

Art gum eraser cleans my cutting mat beautifully, over and over!

Cutting Tables
Bed raisers can lift your cutting table up to a reasonable height.

PVC piping can be cut to lift a table to the appropriate height.

My husband and I acquired an old sturdy table, second hand, awhile ago. We took the top off of the metal legs, and he built a 2x4 frame for the table top. We added two sets of shelves on the underpart of the table, and now I have a perfect cutting table for my quilt studio. Whether you are tall,short or in between, there is nothing better than a cutting table that is the exactly correct height – and storage for 3 rubbermaid totes underneath allows me to keep flannel, bits of batting, and useable scraps of fabric organized!

I found an old-timey 8-pound iron in the shed when I moved in. I use it as a weight to keep a quilt on the table, and I also brought in a few rocks from the garden, cleaned them up real well and use them as fabric weights too!

I bought a 3 drawer dresser from Ikea. Took the cutting table from JoAnn's apart and had one large section attached to the top of the dresser. Hinged the other large section down the back. Put the entire thing on lockable caster wheels. Now I have lots of great storage for stablizers, etc and no wasted space with the table legs. If I need a larger cutting space I just roll it to the center of the room and prop up the hinged back section. I just did the same thing with my ironing board. Now I have lots of space to collect more "stuff".

Design Wall/Designing
A flannel backed tablecloth will make a great design wall

An old flannel sheet will make a great design wall

I like using a kid's toy called a Bug/Insect lens. When you look through it you can see multiples of a single quilt block to see what the top might look like put together.

I also like using a door peephole. Especially for those who do not have a large work space. You can look through it backwards and see how the top or overall design will look from a distance. It helps me see areas where the design is not balanced.

Look through binoculars backwards to see how a quilt top will look from a distance.

Metal curtain rod to make a design wall

Fabric and Project Storage and Organization
Just got a pack of comic book board for fabric storage.

Use multi level pant holders to hang larger sizes of fabric

Use antique tabletop clothes dryer to hold the strips from a jelly roll.

I have a folding drying rack, which I use when I am making log cabin quilts – or any quilt that uses lots of strips of fabric. I hang the fabric over the bars and I can easily see what I want when I am ready to use it. (This is not how I store fabric, but how I organize a project.)

The two gallon ziplock bags hold my future quilt projects when I purchase my fabrics prior to starting them.

Galvanized bucket to hold current project, the handle makes it easy to transport

Pants hangers to hang blocks up.

Old filing cabinets with the metal frames for files make great hangers for fabric.

A small curio cabinet for storing smaller quilts.

Larger cardboard tubes - press fabrics and then roll round the tube to save creasing again by folding.

Canvas shoe rack that velcros over a closet rod to hold fat quarters.

Pizza boxes (unused) to store your quilt squares as you finish them. Stores them great after being pressed. You can also use them to store your cut pieces to take to class or just to keep them all together until you sew them together.

I use a wall CD/DVD holder (made of wire) for my fat quarters

Clear plastic binder pouches to keep fabric pieces clean and organized. You can see what's in there without opening. And label it so you know how much you have or what its for.

Use clear page protectors in a binder to keep projects organized. Keep the block with the page of directions until you are ready to put the quilt together.

I use a clear zip-up envelope (like sheets come in) to put a project and pattern in.

The pool noodles make great places to roll your quilts onto to keep out wrinkles after the project is complete.

I use a pool noodle (foam tube) to store quilt tops to avoid folds while waiting to be quilted

Old skirt hangers make great places to hang table runners.

The clear plastic boxes in which lettuce is sold make the perfect project boxes. When they get beat up, I just toss them. Great to sort charm squares and those small projects one likes to take to the dentist's waiting room.

Chinese food takeout containers - the ones that are black on the bottom and clear on the top - are great for storing small projects and make them easy to see.

Clear plastic trays from Wal-mart that are 2 1/2 inch wide – great for strips

Surgical instrument trays are great for sorting your projects

Finger Pressing
In a package of dental tools from the dollar store, there was a tongue scraper - handy for finger pressing.

Pie wedge utensil for finger pressing.

Used key cards from hotels for finger pressing

Foundation Piecing
I use dryer sheets for string blocks

Freezer Paper
I use a Glad “Press n Seal” empty box to store and tear my stabilizer or my adhesive paper. No more cutting with scissors and always a straight cut.

Gloves
Banker's fingers can be used instead of gloves

Gardening gloves work as free motion gloves

Little kitchen sponges will work as non-slip surfaces for free motion quilting

Two pieces of non-slip shelf liner will work as non-slip surfaces for free motion quilting

Cheap foam flip flops from Joann's to help grip your fabric while machine quilting on your domestic machine.

Rubber kitchen gloves are perfect for guiding your quilt during free motion quilting.

I purchased work gloves from the hardware store. They are knitted but the fingers and palms have been dipped into a non-slip rubber – they work great for free motion quilting.

Finger cots from the bandaid section worked the best for me! Lightweight but stick well!

Hand Work
When I hand quilt I put a spool of thread in a baby food jar, punch a hole in the lid and then pull the thread up through the hole.

I use an eye bolt with a washer and nut. I slip a spool of thread on it and use a bit of cording to hang it around my neck when doing a lot of hand sewing

Use extra long chain to make necklace to put scissors on when hand quilting

Scotch tape. I use it to keep my embroidery thread from unraveling.

Pliers, if you're doing hand work. Sometimes you need a little help pulling the needle through

Forceps for pulling that needle through several thicknesses of fabric when hand quilting.

The rubber strip they use to take blood to pull needles through multi layers of fabric.

Ironing Board
Use scrap strips sewn onto an old ironing board cover and then just run a new piece of elastic around the edge rather than replacing the cover.

Light Box
Cheap light box - place white Christmas lights in a translucent plastic container.

Long Arm Quilting Hacks
When I'm quilting something on my longarm and the back isn't big enough to prevent me from hitting my side clamps, I put metal hotdog-roasting sticks around the poles to prop up the elastic and hold the clamps up so my machine can get under. It's kind of comical, but works great! The ones I have are shaped to fit two hotdogs, and the curve happens to fit almost perfectly around the roller.

Metal curtain rod to place on the long arm to keep backing fabric from drooping.

Don't know what they are called but there are special metal bowls with magnetic bottoms that make wonderful pin and needle holders. They are found at hardware stores. I have a friend w/ a long arm who keeps one on the metal rails of the machine. The magnetic bottom keeps the bowl in place and she put her scissors, seam ripper and other tools in it where they are handy. (Be careful with magnets and computers!)

Dental floss with a small loop in it used for threading the long arm (comes in packages).

Marking the quilt
Crayola washable markers can be used to mark your quilt for quilting. When done quilting just throw it in the wash and they disappear. (I'd test this on a piece of my fabric first!)

Use Painter's tape (masking tape) for marking diagonal lines to quilt.

Tupperware lid can be used to mark a curve

Dinner plate to make the curved corners on a baby quilt or on fleece blankets

Use “Press-n-seal” to draw on a simple quilt pattern and then place on top and sew right over it. - not recommended when having lots of crossover seams too hard to pick out the PNS.

The 6' metal ruler from Lowe's for marking your quilt top

I use a few old cardboard oven pizza rounds to mark circles or half circles for quilting my tops

I use cookie cutters for marking designs for hand quilting. Dip the edge in flour or cinnamon depending on the fabric color for contrast - press firmly onto the space I want the motif to be then hand quilt the design. The flour will brush off when done.

Use colored chalk to mark your quilts.

I have a stack of 4x6 notecards by my machine....I use them to mark diagonal lines and for scratch notes.

I use a piece of plexiglass bought at Home Depot to trace the quilting pattern with an erasable marker I am considering for use on a on a quilt. I lay it over the pieced top to see if I like it or if it needs adjustments. When I'm done with it, I just wipe the marker off so I can use it again later.

I use a small flat piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it to - keeps material steady while you trace a pattern

I spray glued a piece of sandpaper to a plastic clipboard for fabric marking and template tracing works well for applique and marking HST's. (This is also helpful for stabilizing a quilt label, if you are writing or printing on it by hand.)

Needles
One large daily medicine dispenser can hold your sewing needles, or in a ring binder plastic baseball card holder can hold needles as well.

Big Pill Box to store packages of needles, I put labels on each lid for the needle type in that spot. I put sticky backed felt on the inside of the lid that I stick a used needle in that is still good, but not ready for the trash.

Photography
Use Binder clips along the top edge. To take a photo flip the pincher part up and hang that on needles or tacks.

Paper Piecing
I use a professional finger nail cleaner to pick out small bits of paper in the tighter spots of paper pieced projects. The flat angled edge works great

For the paper for paper piecing, buy the 20 lb (this is the quality of the paper, not the weight of the box!) photocopy/printing paper. It will tear much more easily than the 25 lb paper and is much cheaper than the 'real' paper. Not only that, it will print in your printer with no problem.

Piecing
Marker tabs to mark pieces

Post It notes to mark pieces

Alligator clips to hold pieces together in piles when transporting

Clothes pins with numbers printed on them with a sharpie – to keep track of the order of the blocks.

I use alphabet beads on safety pins to mark my rows. A bag can be bought at any craft store and usually with a coupon very inexpensive. I made several sets out of just one bag.

Pin Cushions
Mechanic's have a magnetic dish for screws and bolts and nuts; this works as a brilliant pin cushion – just be careful around your computerized sewing machines.

Get a few china saucers at the thrift store, glue a few magnets on the bottom and you have a great pretty place to put your pins right next to your sewing machine.

There is also a mechanic's magnetic dish with a wrist strap – handy for a hands-free pin cushion

Pins and needles
Foam ear plugs will hold pins in place. (And keep you from stabbing yourself with them as you transport your work.)

For those expensive Pinmoors, I went to the hardware store and bought a package of round insulation and cut it into 1/2" chunks. Got about 300 of them for less than 5 bucks!

I use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser as a pin cushion.

A dry Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to clean & / or polish pins. New pins have a coating from the factory & the sponge will remove it. Just use it as a pincushion for the first time or two.

Bottle lids can be used to make pin cushions.

I bought a long handled magnet in hardware dept. (Like roofers using for picking up nails) use it to find all the straight pins that always fall on floor while I'm sewing. I'm usually barefoot in my sewing room and this helps me not getting stuck.

Roll up used SOS pads and cover...make great needle holder/cleaners.

Pressing
1 part cheap vodka and 3 parts water as a spray when ironing takes wrinkles out of material like a charm and gives it a bit of stiffness kind of like Best Press only cheaper. (Vodka is not cheap in Canada, I suspect this one will not work for me.)

Glass Vinegar bottle will take a spray top from a plastic bottle, and if you touch it with the iron the glass bottle will not melt.

Parchment paper can be used to shield your iron from the dangers of sticky goo when using fusible webbing.

One woman uses her husband's white golf shirts as pressing cloths.

A metal icing spatula holds the seams flat when pressing. It has a bent shank, and won't melt.

At the sewing machine, in lieu of finger pressing, use a tiny wall paper roller to press seams open.

Clean your iron with wax paper crumbled up in a ball and GooBGone if you get adhesive on it.

Used dryer sheets will help clean stuff off your iron--use on hot iron

Pour a layer of salt into a 9 x 13 pan and iron directly on the salt to remove goo from your iron.

I use a really ugly bracelet that I keep attached to my iron. When I turn it on I put the bracelet on. Return to iron if off. Soooo....if it is on me the iron is on! Took a plastic slinky and cut down the side, passed this out to guild members to use.

I have a big cup hook on the underside of the shelf over my ironing board. When I unplug my iron, I hang the cord on the hook. When I stand by the sewing room door, I can see whether I have left the iron plugged in or not.

I take a cork round to classroom set the hot iron on. Found at Wal-mart in kitchen area as a trivet or in the garden dept to set pots on. Comes in a variety of sizes.

I borrow cans of tuna from the pantry & use them as weights when I need to pin long strips like borders; prevents material from slipping off the ironing board.

When making a pinwheel block, for instance, where the center is bulky, iron it well then put a bacon press on top. Come back later and your seams are flat

I found an old-timey 8-pound iron in the shed when I moved in. Perfect for anything needing a pressing without heat!

TV tray: Cover the top with thin batting (100% cotton) and material to make a small ironing board for blocks

Make yourself a larger ironing board surface by buying a piece of plywood or MDF board at the lumberyard. Have them cut it so it measures 2 feet wide by what ever length you want it. Then you lay your ironing board on top of the plywood board and draw around it. (This is so that you can put your new bigger ironing board on top of your old ironing board... the old board will be the new rectangular board's feet!) Then you need some pieces of 2X2 which you will place around the drawing you did of the ironing table. Screw them down into the plywood making sure the screw doesn't come through the top of the plywood. Now take the plywood and cover it with a couple layers of batting (100% cotton!) and heat resistant fabric on top. The stuff I used is silver and is used in oven gloves and such. Once you have that done you will have a large area to iron your quilt tops on.

I have an ironing board, as described above. And my husband made a lovely stand for it out of 2x4s that is the perfect height for me. AND I added some shelves on the bottom where I keep Works in Progress in Rubbermaid containers.

Quilt Frame
Go to the parts store and buy a hand held LED mechanics light they are great for checking under quilts when they are on the frame.

I use a apron when I'm long arm quilting to keep scissors, tweezers etc in reach.

Rotary Cutters
Use foil to sharpen your rotary blades. Just stack a few layers then cut with your cutter works great

I buy carpet blades to use in the rotary cutter. they are 2 to a pack for $1.99USD and yes they are the same size. They get them from Harbor Freight in the US. (the Item # is 97642 or 95378 replacement carpet cutter blades)

I bought the heavy duty hardware gloves to use my olfa cutter to protect my hands. They are rubberized so its hard to manipulate but safer for your hands while cutting.

Rulers
Belt Hangers – to store rulers

Handles – Bathroom section of the hardware store has those handles with suction cups that can be used to make rulers easier to handle.

Put Nexcare flexible tape on the back of rulers to prevent slippage.

Rubber shelf liner stuck on the back of the rulers will help with slipping

Masking tape can be stuck on the front of the ruler so you don't have to keep looking for the same measurement when cutting multiple strips the same width

Plexiglass cut to size at the hardware store makes for great squaring-up rulers, too

I use plain metal shower curtains to put through the holes in my rulers to hang up on my slat board hooks.

A piece of self stick tile makes a nice rotary friendly template

A T-Square is 2 1/2 inches; great for cutting strips

I use an t-square that sheet rock carpenters use to square up quilts and cut batting. It is 48 " long and can make one cut on rolled batting

I use a empty bubble gum container to hold my 120" tape measure. Remove label with GooBGone

Ikea utensil rod and hooks to hang rulers

I use a plastic office mail divider for my small rulers to keep them handy and organized.

The big rulers have a strip of selvage tied through the hole in the end and I hang them from a clothes hook on the wall.

Kitchen hanging pot rack for rulers and templates

I purchased an 1/8 hole punch and a stick on sanding disc, punched out a whole bunch of pieces, keep the whole punch and pieces in a zip bag, and use the little pieces on the back of my rulers to keep them from slipping. (remove the paper backing on the pieces with a stick pin) gives you a life times worth.

I use according folder for all of my small rulers and other quilting items. Very inexpensive and you can mark what is in file

Plate rack to hold my rulers.

I keep my rulers in a napkin holder

Use a letter sorter for small rulers at your cutting station

I use a metal yardstick rather than a plastic ruler, and imagine it will be good for another 30 years.

I have a country look in my house so I use an old ladder hanging horizontal from the ceiling for my rulers & templates. It hangs above my cutting table! Bronzed mug hooks are what I used for the actual hangers!

I use Hercules hooks to hang my rulers on.

The racks that hold plates on the wall can also hold rulers or cutting mats

I bought some really large notebook rings, put my rulers in categories on them, then hang each ring on the end of my metal shelves.

Scissors
If your scissors don't cut well, layer a few sheets of wax paper and cut thru them, makes the blades glide smoothly.

I use one of the cords that go around your neck you see any people wear for name badges and hang my small scissors on them because I keep losing them. Always at hand when I need to snip a thread.

A magnetic kitchen knife rack for scissors

I fastened a plastic scissors holder (kind of V-shaped) to the side of my machine with a sticky Velcro to keep a pair of scissors with the machine

I use the cardboard rolls from small bin bags (they're stronger than toilet rolls) to support my scissors to keep the points sharp.

Coffee cup 'tree'' to hang scissors etc on

I have a row of cup hooks to hang my scissors

I use a small magnet (from craft or home improvement stores) on my Kangaroo (Stork) scissors and another one of the underside of my shirt to hold my scissors handy. Just slide the blade of the scissors off the magnet. One magnet stays on the inside and one on the outside! Always handy, never under anything, never swinging around when you lean over. The magnets are about the size of an aspirin and strong enough to hold a pair of 7" scissors. Just remember to take them off as they don't come out of the metal wash tubs easily and don't stay on your shirt in there. I made business cards for 'get acquainted' gifts at guild meetings and gave everyone a set of magnets for their scissors. Everyone remembered me!

Scraps
A plastic coffee can is great for putting small strips/pieces of material in for saving for your stash

Antique crystal ice buckets for scraps of fabric

Seam Ripper
Safety razor as a seam ripper (BE CAREFUL!)

Small battery operated clippers (moustache trimmers) as seam ripper. Takes only seconds for long seams. (AGAIN, be careful!)

In beauty supply stores they sell small plastic disposable razors,wrapped with wire used to groom eyebrows. It's a terrific seam ripper. (Need I say, be careful, again?)

Old blunt (ish) rotary cutters make great quick unpicks especially if you have shortened the stitching like you do in foundation piecing. (AGAIN, be careful!!)

When ripping out a seam, line the back with masking tape or blue painters tape; on the other side, nip every few stitches. When you are done nipping, pull the tape and it will rip it all out very easily and the little string leftovers will stay on the tape!

I know none of you would ever do this, but just in case you might know someone who has to take their stitching out (frog stitching) an emery board from you manicure supplies will pick all the little pieces of thread right off your fabric

Serger
I use a mouse pad to keep my serger from walking around. Keeps it quieter too

Sewing kits
When traveling and stitching, like waiting in a doctor's office, I carry a small cream cheese container for threads, etc

The container craft pins come in from the store can hold a tiny sew on the go kit. Needles in one of my antique needle cases.

An empty dental floss container will hold a bobbin of thread for traveling, and by threading your thread through, you will have a cutter. (And you don't have to worry about scissors on airplanes)

Sewing Machine Extension
I put thread boxes around my machine to make a great big quilting table.

Sewing Machine Hacks
I use cheap alcohol wipe squares (one's doctors use before your shot) to clean off any residues from basting spray or tape (on the sewing machine needle, or scissors)

Use several layers of masking tape to make a sewing gauge on bed of your sewing machine

A stack of “post its” to use as a guide to maintain the correct seam allowance

Two door stop wedges underneath the back of the sewing machine to tip it forward and make things easier to see.

I use the circular pads you put under chair feet to elevate my sewing machine in the back. I'm short so this really helps me to see my fabric that I'm sewing.

Irish Spring soap to reduce smell of older sewing machine in case

Rubber shelf liners to keep the pedal from slipping

I use a mouse pad with an elevated pad for your wrist. I place it on the floor under my sewing machine and put my foot pedal on it. Even when at a class it keeps your pedal from sliding all over the place and the raised section serves as a stop for the pedal so it does not slide off the mouse pad.

Sand paper attached to the bottom of your pedal keeps it from sliding.

I put velcro on the bottom of my sewing machine foot to keep it from sliding. (Works on rug)

Use a NEW toilet brush to sweep up around your sewing machine – this will pick up all your bits of threads and snips of fabric – make sure, however, that you mark your toilet brush so it doesn't get used for its original purpose!

If you use a Swiffer, you might try what I do, I make my new pads by using odd pieces of batting that normally would be thrown out. Works great on floors (picks up all those pieces of thread) or any surface that you need to dust.

For a trash bag at the sewing machine, when I am in a class or long term situation I tape, with masking tape, a brown paper bag to the table. Could use an old bag you get your prescriptions from the drug store in too.

I use the square kleenex boxes for trash next to my sewing machine.

I use empty plastic yogurt container to clip my strings and scraps into so they stay off the floor and out of my kitties tummies.

Attach a soap dish with suction cups to the side of my machine to hold small tools. ($ store)

Tape a pen cap to the side of your sewing machine to hold your seam ripper. If you have a larger Seam ripper, an old medicine bottle works.

Use a long piece of selvage edge that you have trimmed off your fabric to tie a pair a snips to your sewing machine's cord. (Then you can find your scissors when you need to clip those little triangles of fabric)

Use a rotating desk organizer , from an office supply store, beside your machine for all your tools

A magnet on a stick from the automotive store is good for not having to bend over to pick up pins on the floor. They are usually telescoping too.

A long handle grabber to pick things up I drop behind the machine or other difficult to get to places is useful.

Toilet paper rolls to use with all your sewing machine cords; just fold cords and push them through rolls. Keeps everything neat and tidy

I have self sticking Velcro attached to the back of my machine to hold my threads when I'm starting to sew. Always know where my threads are and they don't bunch up as I start.

I pilfer coffee stirring sticks a couple at a time and insert a little piece of chenille. It is great for cleaning lint out of my machine.

Tiny little dental brushes work great in cleaning the bobbin area of your machine

I keep Q-tips handy, put a spot of oil on the end and use it to oil the bobbin area of the machine each time I replace the bobbin. Keeps things running smoothly and quietly.

I have a small soft round paint brush that I use for cleaning lint from my sewing machine. Works like a charm and can get into spots that the little stiff brush that came with the machine can't reach.

Make up brushes work well to clean out bobbin area

A small piece of batting pinned to my shirt will store clipped threads

A cookie sheet for storing and moving tools between cutting table and machine - makes it easier to keep together and carry.

Letter opener to cut apart chain piecing.

Not only can you use your credit card for the obvious stash building purposes but you can cut it up (once it is maxed out) and use double sided tape to tape at the 1/4" mark on your sewing machine bed. It makes an easy guide for your material to run along.

I use an old gift card when doing mitered corners

Starbucks or Costa wooden stirrers for coffee - sneak a few next time you're having a drink - perfect 1/4" rule allowance

Sewing Machine Tools
I have a small tool box I carry with me when I go to retreats "Mary Poppins sewing bag" is what my quilt guild calls it...let me see what it has in it...A paintbrush and crochet hook stored in a toothbrush holder to clean your machine. Q-tips (stored in a travel soap box), round facial pads and a bottle of alcohol (rubbing of course) to clean goo off of needle. Small set of screw drivers, a regular and Phillips CHUBBY screwdrivers, tweezers, chenille sticks for the hard to reach fuzzies, small set of Chubbys socket/screw set (just in case you need some extra torque to open a throat plate. Doorstops, as mentioned above. Squeezy ball to exercise hands and wrist. Bottle of sewing machine oil and disposable gloves. Retractable carpenters tape measure for measuring quilt tops. ....Oh YES....and a small hammer, have never used to for anything, but as a carpenters daughter I was raised to never leave home w/o it!

I keep a pair of tweezers in my sewing machine tray at all times.

I am a retired RN but still have some tools of the trade. Hemostsat (or Kelly Clamp ) to do surgery on my machine when the thread jams

Keep a toolbox in the sewing room. Mark the tools with a shade of nail polish that will guarantee the guys won't use them & don't take them from your sewing area. There will always be a machine to clean, or something to hang on the wall, or a stubborn needle that needs a little help.

I buy the floral sclew driver, and use decorative duct tape on handles of my tools to keep my husband from borrowing them and never seeing them again.....he won't use the girly ones. Works great.

A dental mirror to see things in place hard to see (I keep it with a small flashlight)

Sharps
I took one of my children's small milk bottle/cartons, cut a hole in it, and I use it for "sharps." Bent pins go in there, dull rotary blades, sewing machine needles, etc.

I kept a hand cream bottle with a screw on lid. And I keep all my dull 'sharps' in there. I broke a rotary cutter blade, I have broken or dull sewing machine needles, bent needles I used for binding and the occasional pin that I have folded in half (usually with the sewing machine, by accident!) When it is full, I wrap a piece of duct tape around it and toss it in the garbage.
I use an old prescription bottle for old needles. I just drill a tiny hole in the lid, superglue the lid on, and then I just put them in the trash. (Someone suggested that the small hole be dispensed with)

I dispose of used needles in an empty Sew Easy glue tube.

I use a short glass jar (mushrooms came in it) and put my used rotary blades in it for disposal. Perfect size because it is only about 3" high, stores out of the way and holds so many blades it's unreal.

The empty round containers that ICE BREAKERS mints come in make great storage for used rotary cutter blades until disposal

I keep the little containers that lead for mechanical pencils comes in to dispose of pins and needles, also. They are small enough to fit into my travel sewing box.

Empty Altoid tins are good to hold old, broken needles, pins, and dull rotary blades.

Vitamin jar to hold old needles, pins.

I use an old Tic Tack container to store my broken needles in (from the long arm).

I took an empty peanut can, small one, and punched hole in lid for used needles and pins, and of course any pins that I have used and bent

I drink coffee while I quilt and we have a Keurig. The used "pods" are great for throwing away used needles

Squaring-up
Tile laser for squaring up quilts before adding the binding and also to square up quilt backs.

Stencils and templates
I buy colouring books and use stencils for walls as ideas for applique projects.

X-ray film for templates.

Plexiglass is awesome for making templates

Kitchen trivets that are oversized like tiles..makes a perfect square. U learn to use what u have.

Cereal boxes to make templates

Plates of various sizes to make scalloped edges on your quilts.

Bowls and cups of all sizes for drawing patterns

A spaghetti serving measurer makes a great marking tool for circles of different sizes

Storage and Organization (Tools)
I installed two Clear View 12 bin stacking organizers on the wall behind my work table for storage of the hundreds of tiny things that every sewer needs. With the clear see through doors it is a cinch to find anything.

Use Crystal Lite containers to hold markers and other odds and ends.

Cups to keep paint pens in.

A wine rack will hold rolls of stabilizers.

Cup hooks screwed into the bottom edge of a window sill to hold ... well, whatever you want to. Mine hold my small scissors ( tied onto a ribbon), my measuring tape (also on a ribbon), my bag of machine needles, a "cheat sheet" for quilt backing measurements, etc.

Spring loaded curtain rod between bookcases holds a roll of batting

An acrylic make up organizer with lots of different sized compartments, sits by the sewing machine holding awl, tweezers, crochet hooks, brush, seam ripper, little screwdriver, paint spatula, chopsticks.

Save those oversized clear plastic containers cheese balls come in. They are fantastic for stuffing the scraps and steps in for future scrap quilts; also, a great place to find that fabric that is needed to patch a damaged quilt if you forgot to stash it behind your label.
A metal, extended length, ruler Maybe 48" stiff enough to aid in smoothing the backing batting and top during assembly process. It is an extension of your arm across a large table or floor. These can be found in the hardware store

Silverware tray organizes needles, marking tools, pens, pencils etc.

Clay pots for larger tools or scraps of fabric

Using those plastic, zipper bags that bed sheets come in for odds and ends for sewing.

Tool bag with multiple compartments and/or toolboxes are far cheaper than any similar carrying devices made for quilters.

Use mason jars for buttons, pins, etc.

Baby food jars for buttons

I have one of those remote control things that's supposed to hang on the arm of your couch/chair that I use to hold pens, rotary cutters, seam ripper etc, hung on the arm of my sewing chair.

I use a Pampered Chef's rotating utensil holder on my sewing table to hold cutters, small rulers, pencils etc.

I use slat board and hooks or pegboard and hooks to hang my spare rotary tools and stencils, etc.

I use fishing tackle boxes (the plastic ones) to sort beads and embroidery floss.

I use old Tide Pod containers to hold buttons, ric-rac, and other small trims. I took some black paint and repainted the labels so that it looked like a chalkboard to label them!

Over the door shoe holders, clear vinyl pockets, to hold all my rolls of interfacing and stabilizers and other sewing tools. Clear pockets let me find things easily!

I use empty paper towel and toilet paper rolls to keep cords from getting tangled on my iron, lamps and sewing machines when not in use.

Peg board and hooks to organize supplies.

I use an assortment of large plastic jars, the kind nuts and pretzels, etc, come in to store small scraps, unused binding scraps, wound up strips. I sit them on top of cabinets around my sewing room, they are attractive AND you can see what is inside.

I save baby food and formula container for pins, measuring tape. They can store a lot of little things and extra binding too

Use a Pringles can that you decorate. Great for storing your small items like seam rippers

Empty toilet paper rolls slit down the middle will hold wonder under, iron on fleece, or interfacing You may also write needed directions on the tubes

Masonite from hardware store is great for purse bottoms (my husband cuts it for me) and also a large piece goes in the "X" under my ironing board to store my cutting mat, and large rulers.

Thimbles
Bankers fingers

Love my veterinarian wrap versus a thimble

Thread
Thread spools and bobbins are kept on a peg board with a dowel through the holes to hold them.

I store my spools of thread on dishwasher racks on the wall

RX bottles to hold spool of thread and matching bobbin.

Back scratchers are great for retrieving things from under furniture. Bobbins & spools love to roll to the least accessible places.

I took 2 long nails, a 2 x 2 x 4 piece of wood, nailed the nails up through the bottom of the wood, and made a bobbin holder.

I created my own Spool/cone holder from a twisted coat hanger wrapped around a coffee cup, and I put the cone in the cup.

Use a mason/canning jar to hold a spool of thread.... it never flies off the pin, or in this case out of the jar

Thermal beverage glass with straw will hold a cone of thread and thread goes through straw hole. Your thread stays clean and this will replace a cone thread holder.

I use a plastic coffee can with a hole in the top to put my cone into for sewing. Just haven't gotten around to buying a 'cone-holder'!

I use that black support CD / DVD package (the kind that holds 25 or more blank CD/DVDs), to support the sewing thread cone. Requested, only the support in CD / DVD store.

When school supplies are out I buy the school boxes to put my thread in. Assorted colors & they stack really well and you don't get the thread hot or dusty in the sewing room

I use an old cotton reel (spool) up the inside of a thread cone so that it doesn't wobble and cause tension problems.

I use cling wrap around my thread reels (spools) to keep them from unraveling

Use dental floss when making yo-yo's if quilting thread not available.

I use sticky dot to stick on my thread that has been open but not in use

Press and Seal, small pieces to hold thread end on spool.

Mesh tubes that hold flower bouquets together will slide over your thread cones to keep them from unwinding.

A straw in a weighted take-out cup makes a free thread cone holder.

Use upside down plastic cups to hold thread...especially useful with large spool sizes and to keep dust off: punch a hole in top.

Small zip lock bags (2" x 3") to put my spool of thread and bobbin to match in together.

Rows of coat pegs will hold large spools of serger threads or cones of thread

Transportation to and from class/retreats
Paper plates, I cut several blocks and keep track of them by placing the block pieces for 1 block on each plate. They stack and can go to quilt class and stay together

I use a freezer bag. You can buy big ones – they will actually hold a 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 inch block.

A plastic rolling tool box for carting all you need to classes. Available at Canadian Tire in Canada, and automotive supply places elsewhere.

I use my mailing labels to mark all parts of my machine, iron etc. when taking a class or going to retreat

When taking class and need a few different colored bobbins, I put them in a small prescription bottle and put in an long cosmetic bag with threads and rotary cutter, etc.

Large suitcase full of quilting items to take to retreats

But my favorite of all is the Tupperware Salt and Pepper shakers which are kinda round but pop open...I store pins in them for when I travel! lol

Laptop case for taking projects on the road.

Trapunto
There is a dental tool with a tip like a spade that works like nothing else for trapunto.

Turning things
Wooden chop sticks can be used to push out corners when turning things (pillowcases, purse straps, etc.)

those orange or yellow tupperware orange peelers make great corner pokers that you use when you turn the handles of tote pockets and handles.

Use bamboo skewers to turn corners and to turn tubes for my applique quilts

Straws for turning appliqued pieces.

I use my hubby's gun cleaning rod to turn tubes

Wooden dowels with safety pin duct taped on for turning tubes

Ideas for presenting the program
Put all the 'odd' items on a table to display as folks arrive and do it all at once. The proper direction, after some examples, would be to present a problem and ask what solution they might come up with, as in a messy nest of yards and yards of bias strip, "How could we prevent this from happening?” The summation or closure would be "what other problems do you have when quilting and what solutions come to mind now that we have opened the box?”

For your class I love the idea of holding up an item and asking what else it could be used for. If you don't choose very many and they are not expensive perhaps you can put names of the participants in a bowl and choose winners of the awesome new quilting tools...